The Floating Market, Bangkok

An impromptu birthday lunch for a friend took us to the floating market about 1 hr outside Bangkok - a local produce / fish market where vendors prepare meals in woks on tiny canoes aside the floating platform.


Having been in BKK for over 1 year now, everyone was surprised I had not taken the time to see this yet, as it is a BKK institution. However, as most of you know, I spend most weekends traveling - the result of which is I realize I haven't actually explored my own city as carefully as I would like. I guess the equivalent would be my living in NYC for 14 years and never visiting the Statue of Liberty (yes, also true).

Sitting on thatched mats on the moving floor (floating platform, remember?) we enjoyed lots of local fish, dried catfish, chicken and basil stirfry, morning glory, fresh mangoes and much more.




I guess one could day this is the weekend equivalent of brunch in NYC....just another day in Bangkok.

J

What the hell is going on in Thailand?

First, I apologize as I am woefully behind on my trips....all I can say without boring you to tears is that I have been working HARD. So no time to even pull trip photos off my camera. I hope to find the time over the holidays to put up a couple of postings.

In the meantime, some of have heard and have asked me 'what is going on in Thailand?' Aside from the fact that there are protests and the airport closed because a particular political party disagreed with the current administration, I was really unable to share much....until now.

You see in Thailand, news is censored. Newspapers, TV, and until recently even internet sites like You Tube were blocked to "protect the people." Protect them from what???? Well, it seems that the country is not worried about its skyrocketing AIDS rate, or the sex tourism trade or the abject poverty one sees on the streets. No, they are worried about you reading something negative about the government and the king. There is a law here that prevents one from even speaking about the King or monarchy in public lest they get arrested and / or deported. And in fact, I am only recently emboldened to share this as I am moving to Singapore and also because I am writing this from a hotel room in Hong Kong. Thai government tracks all goings-on on the internet as well, so I will leave my comments brief as I like the Thai beaches and want to return occasionally.

But what I would like to do is share with you some links where you can read more. All this news in printed form is blocked in Thailand. I learned about it thorough word of mouth and was encouraged to find it online (but not to forward it as it may attract unwanted attention from the censors). Expats are speaking in quiet whispers, asking one another, "did you see the article? it was the first time I understood what was happening here."

In fact, the Economist was banned from Thailand for its thorough dissection of 60 years of the monarchy. And Newsweek also shared a pretty thorough commentary as well charatcerizing events as the brewing of a "civil war", this publication is also not available in Thailand anymore.

So, if you would like to understand more, please take a look at these links.

http://www.economist.com/world/asia/displayStory.cfm?story_id=12724800&source=hptextfeature

http://www.economist.com/opinion/displaystory.cfm?story_id=12724832

http://www.newsweek.com/id/172612


More later. I promise.

Joanna

Chiang Rai, Thailand - A trip north

A last minute trip north was planned....mostly because we had won a gift certificate for a resort, but also because I had not seen this more rural part of Thailand in the mountains. So off to Chiang Rai we go - about a 1 hr flight from Bangkok.

Turns our there are really only 2 things to see..the Golden Triangle and Wat Rong Khun Temple (or white temple). Other than that, I really just had a mind to sleep, eat and relax. Which turned out to be a good thing....because really, outside of those 2 destinations, Chiang Rai is a sleepy sleepy little town. zzzzzzzz.......

On Day 1 we set out for the White Temple. While most temples are dark, teak wood, the White Temple is distinctive and striking in appearance - a stark white structure on the horizon with glittering mirrors reflecting the bright sunlight overhead. It is lifetime project of artist Chalermchai Kositpipat to honor the current King of Thailand - it employs a blend of traditional Buddhist art with contemporary themes. Interestingly enough one of the contemporary themes is a mural with a representation of Keanu Reeves' character in the movie the Matrix as a symbol of the desctructiveness of modern times and technology. A bit odd, but maybe this explains lack of commitment to build relaible infrastructure for things like the internet in Thailand.



Next the Golden Triangle....a place notable because of its physical geography as the intersection of point of three countries Laos, Myanmar and Thailand, hence the name. The landscape is hilly and dense (it is the jungle after all) and is divided by the Ruak River that flows into the Mekong River - these rivers form a natural boundary between the three countries.


Apparently the Golden Triangle is also the heart of the opium trade. It seems opium and morphine were produced in Myanmar and the transported by horse or donkey caravans to refineries along the Thailand–Myanmar border for conversion to heroin. Finished goods were shipped across the border into various towns in North Thailand and and Bangkok for further distribution to international markets. I don't know if any of you saw the recent Denzel Washington movie called American Gangster, but they depict this area in the height of the 60's when GI's were coming through SE Asia and bringing some "special" parcels back to the US on unchecked government military planes. An opium museum at the site explains this and much more...from the paraphenalia used to how it is extracted and processed from poppy flowers. People say the operations still exist just on a smaller scale but it seems Afghanistan has now taken over as the world's #1 opium producer with SE Asian countries adopting strict penalties for drugs.

Outside of these 2 sites, there was not much more to report... the world's worst pizza was had at a tragic little Italian restaurant named DaVinci's - its name is permanently etched in my mind so I can warn others. And a Thai fortune teller at the night market tried to pitch me her services by telling me she had some very bad news to share with me....maybe she was trying to warn me about the pizza!

Krabi - A Weekend in Paradise

A couple of friends were moving away from Thailand, so to properly send them off it was decided that a beach weekend was in order. Krabi was selected as it is widely regarded as the most beautiful beach in Thailand by Thais and foreigners alike. Having never been to Krabi, I was excited to see what all the fuss was about.


We arrived late Friday night - after taking a plane 1.5 hrs from BKK and then a van 1hr and then a 10 min boat ride across a cove to a rustic Thai style resort village. Thai style in this case meaning teak wood house silk curtains and everything lit by lanterns. The Thai house (see below) was charming for sure, but under the cover of night it was hard to get a read on what the beach might actually be like. After a late dinner and a couple of drinks I retired to bed...waking up to find we had been dropped in paradise....


Separated by only a small fence and some lawn, we sat on our porch Saturday morning and enjoyed the view....setting out a plan for the day. Eventually some folks went kayaking, while others lounged and read, and a couple of people who spoke Thai offered to go to the local seafood market to prepare for our group seafood feast. I opted for some swimming and a massage on the beach.


As sunset approached, we regrouped late afternoon for cocktails and dinner preparations on the porch. It seems like no matter where you are in the world, nothing tops hanging out with friends over good food and drink.


The next day it was up and at 'em early for a full day snorkeling / boat trip. This is when Krabi's magic fully revealed itself.....stunning cove after stunning cover....crystal blue waters....the most colorful fish I have ever seen swimming close to the surface....the photos simply do not do it justice.



As I prepare for my move to Singapore in January, I am trying to see as much of Thailand as possible....I have an unofficial rule of not going to the same place twice. Lucky for me that Krabi is in southern Thailand, so is about 1 hour from Singapore....because I plan to go back!

Cambodia - Phnom Phen

With the prospect of another long holiday weekend ahead, I found myself a little stumped on where to go. I generally have maintained a policy of not going the same place twice in order to make sure I explore this part of the world thoroughly while I am here. So having noticed on the map that I had not been to Cambodia yet, I set off to plan a trip. I also managed to recruit some old-timers who had been to Cambodia before to join me. Gretchen has been living in Asia some 7 years, while Paul has been here 4. With experienced Phnom Phen (PP) travelers I set off on another SE Asia adventure.

Cambodia was previously colonized by the French. So in addition to having its own history and culture to explore, there is an adopted culture of fine European food and wine . As such, what will follows can most accurately be described as both a dissection of my culinary pursuits as well as a description of the sights we saw.

And since I forgot my camera, I cannot take credit for the photos - Paul took them, which is why sadly he is not pictured.

(having not seen so many pastries in so long - I find myself frozen at the counter, unable to choose!)

After quickly scouring the admittedly small "downtown" of PP, we made our way to the foreign correspondent's club (FCC). A journalists' hangout from the days of the Cambodian civil war and now a favorite of expats. We sampled the local beer - Angkor - and watched the sunset.


Gretchen has some friends living in Phnom Phen who took us out to dinner at a lovely tapas restaurant where we stuffed ourselves on multiple courses of tortillas, chorizo, olives, bread, flan and pitchers of sangria. I think the bill was something like $20 USD / person - incredible.


The next morning we made our way to the Russian market which is where the majority of PP expats and locals do their shopping. Anything you can imagine is sold here from custom gemstone jewelry to motorcycle parts to produce. We were on a hunt for black market GAP and Old Navy and some DVD copies - and a few hours later we emerged with our wallets a little lighter and well stocked on t-shirts and movies.

(the dreaded durian fruit not only smells like death, but looks evil! in fact its smell is so bad, it is banned from public buildings)


After the market, we embarked on the second leg of our journey - a 3 hour drive to through the countryside to the village of Kampot. All manner of Cambodian life were observed on the drive - from emaciated cattle crossing the road to landmine restricted areas to people carrying slaughtered livestock home on the back of motorbikes, no kidding....dangling heads and hoofs and all.

Kampot is a village on the river and as it turns out my most people's standards it is a sleepy little village. For those who live in PP, it is a weekend getaway - the Hamptons of Cambodia. In our time there we totally relaxed - read books, rode bikes, ate leisurely meals and walked along the river.


On our way back to PP we decided to take a bit of a detour to the seaside village of Kep. Our innkeeper in Kampot told us they were famous for their crab. Inspired by a new culinary mission we set off - 2 crabs and a whole fish later....we got back in the car for our final leg back to PP.



In going back to PP, I wanted to take time to see the S21 prison and visit the genocide museum. While chilling, a trip to Cambodia is not really complete without an exploration of the genocide that took place there in recent decades. It is hard to believe that in my generation, today's modern world, that countrymen actually were killing and torturing one another in such medieval ways.


What could be a sad commentary on human nature is softened by the peaceful and gentle nature of Cambodia's today. Everyone we spoke to, from the market to the guesthouse, were friendly and optimistic. They strove to build their businesses and improve their English in order to be more successful. They have dreams of running larger businesses and growing the local ecomony by training and employing more people. The incidents of the past seem not to weigh them down as they look forward to better futures for themselves and their families.

So what's next on the agenda.....let's see:

- Oct: Krabi, Thailand (beach) and Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), Vietnam
- Nov: Siem Reap, Cambodia (Angkor Wat), Koh Samui, Thailand (beach) and Singapore
- Dec: Hong Kong, Shanghai and 2 weeks in Australia

Thailand - State of Emergency

(photos pulled from internet news articles)


I have been getting emails from some of you inquiring about the political situation in Thailand. By the way, this has also been an interesting litmus test on my friend's and family's engagement with world news....now we know who is reading the international section of the paper!

So in its simplest terms, it appears there is a coup in progress. Thailand is no stranger to coups - there was one just prior to my move here in April.

The PAD (People's Alliance for Democracy) is responsible for this, and the last, conflict. Its supporters are mainly urban, middle- to upper-class who are relatively rich compared to the majority of Thailand's rural population. The PAD's self defined mission is anti-corruption and anti-authoritarianism.

Now, one and a half years after the last coup they orchestrated, the PAD have taken action to insist that the Prime Minister step down from his post. So these folks are tired of the PM's alleged corruption and double talk. Anyone who known anything about the 3rd world will know that bribes and corruption are widely tolerated as part of daily life....so in fact the offenses they allege he committed are particularly egregious.

So what does this mean in terms of activity in BKK?

Demonstrations started at the Parliament peacefully, but quickly devolved. Angry protesters brandished weapons as police in riot gear were brought in to calm the swell. Turns out a bunch of angry Thai's are not so easily subdued. Police used force, people died and the conflict then escalated.
In the last week, protests were strategically expanded to include new sites like airports and public transportation centers. The result of which is that 2 airports are now closed and various sorts of public transport are largely unavailable. Large Thai employers and companies have gone on sympathetic strike and there is a rumor that Thai Airways (the national airline) will soon shut down in protest. The international airport is open for the moment, but it is debatable how long that will remain open, especially if Thai Air follows suit.

The PM called the military in for a meeting to assist in matters and it was reported that the head general advised the PM to step down. The military has clearly and publically indicated its support of the people, so one wonders how much longer the PM can hold out. Water and electricity have been shut down in government buildings, residences and in some parts of town in an effort to increase the choke hold on the PM and other politicians. There are reports that the shut downs will be extended to residential areas to further escalate the situation. As chaos, car traffic and mounting anxiety choke BKK, the prevailing opinion is that a coup is underway.

You might be wondering how does this affect me, Joanna..

Well, the answer is not so much....so far. Practically speaking most of the action is in another part of the city. There is a curfew, but it seems none of the expats observe it. We still have water and electricity. Bars, restaurants and clubs are still open and decently attended, although admittedly not as full as usual.

So amidst the chaos the foreign elite are relatively unscathed for now. We'll see how long this holds....I personally am safe and comfortable at the moment. And I think for the majority of us expats, as long as water and electricity are available and the international airport stays open, we will remain fairly secure in our expat bubble.

With that said, laying low is not a bad idea...and I do have a lot of reading to catch up on....

Lux Dubai

On yet another Thai holiday whose significance escaped me, I met a friend in Dubai for a long weekend. Why Dubai? Well practically speaking, because it is the halfway point between BKK and Europe where my friend lives. But in reality, she and both were privy to rumors that shopping, spas and beaches in Dubai were over the top luxurious and we had to see for ourselves! I mean, this after is the home of the world's only 7 star resort (sadly....no we did not stay there.)

It all started with a conspicuously luxurious airport transfer in the form of a Bentley....I swear we did not request such fancy accoutrements, but this apparently is standard issue for the hotel we stayed in. Turns out a Bentley, while nice, reminded me a whole lot of a Lexus on the inside. Good! Crisis averted....now I won't always wonder if I am missing out on the finer things. Either that or I am too simple and coarse to appreciate the subtle nuances of six figure automobiles.

The rest on the other hand I could get used to..... We stayed in a villa on the Jumeirah Al Qsar resort....a posh 5 star resort, where each room has a private butler. This wonderful man brought us a lovely breakfast to our terrace every morning.




The days were spent lounging on the beach where our sun beds were lavishly made with pillows and frozen fruit was served in perfectly spaced intervals by discreet attendants.



Plenty of leisurely time was spent in the ridiculously warm, 90 degree water. (well, it was 105 - 110 outside)

And then evenings were spent having wonderful, leisurely dinners of middle eastern food and partaking of the hookah.


Not bad for 5 days in the middle of a desert....

Koh Samet

Koh Samet is yet another Thai island. What can I say that I haven't already said about Thai islands.....turquoise waters, white sands, laid back vibe....But somehow this one manages to be special in its own way.


It is 2 hours from BKK, so imminently do-able for a weekend. But I think the thing that is most interesting is the blend of Thai and Farang (white foreigners). While many islands and upscale resort here attract foreigners with Dollars or Euros burning a hole in their pockets, Samet presents a low key and more reasonably priced option. For this reason the crowd varies wildly....from teenage European backpackers, to expats stealing a few days away to Thai college students and professionals who come with their friends. We are all attracted for the same reasons - good food, great beaches and better times with friends. Myself, I went with a couple of people from work. Matthias a German expat and Jay an Aussie expat.



In 2 days we managed to cover the island fairly well, thanks to our motorbikes. And explored lots of places from the rocky cliffs at sunset....




....to a lovely restaurant that one has to take a boat to get to, and then dines sitting on the floor with feeling a-dangling above the sea.


Another weekend in Thailand....short, but oh so sweet.

Hong Kong - My new favorite place!

My friend Lara was passing through Asia on business and after a couple of glasses of champagne in BKK, she talked me into taking off with her to Hong Kong a couple of days later. Only a 2.5 hr flight from BKK, HK is surprisingly close.....and as I would discover, it is surprising in many other ways as well.

(yes, this was after the aforementioned champagne :)

After 4 days in Hong Kong, I said to myself, "I might like to live here at some point in my life." So what is so special about HK you ask? Hmmmm, what's not special is really the question. A city with spectacular water and mountain views, the most charming aspects of both Chinese and British culture and a phenomenally rich tapestry of offerings that only an international city as vibrant as this could offer.



Everything about HK is to me is what an international city should be. While I do love living in BKK there are in fact some very clear contrasts between the 2 cities....

Work environment and ethic
- HK: strong and intense, NY-style
- BKK: mai pen rai, Thai for "whatever, never mind, who cares"


Energy level
- HK: high and contagious
- BKK: again mai pen rai

Activities
- HK: wide and varied from high-end shopping to rich cultural pursuits, posh / lux restaurants and a vibrant nightlife with lots of live music
- BKK: shopping in the markets or malls , going to movies, eating street food or fine dining, but a marked lack of anything cultural (e.g. music, performing arts) ...if it doesn't involve food or shopping most Thai's simply aren't interested




History
- HK: a wide awareness and knowledge about the British colonial period balanced with a very Chinese culture, everyone from taxi drivers to the average sales clerk can tell you something new and different about HK
- BKK: no interest in history whatsoever, if it is new and trendy then it captures attention - in fact there are really no antiques or historic old buildings in Thailand (outside of temples), because old = bad, run down, dirty AND new = desirable, attractive

Expat community
Well, one must view a country based on its local people, but I did notice a distinct difference in the expats between these 2 great cities.
- HK: highly educated professionals with an international mindset
- BKK: some professionals like myself, but largely sex-pats who come to "party" in a unique way that only Thailand can offer...did I ever mention the bar Baccarat which features a clear glass second floor on which girls with no underwear dance to entertain the patrons below on the first floor? (oh yes, I cannot make this stuff up).

(in Lan Kwai Fong - the nightclub district in HK)


So, should Unilever ever open a HK office - I'm there. Until then, I will get to HK as often as possible. And you should too....