Friday, November 14, 2008

Chiang Rai, Thailand - A trip north

A last minute trip north was planned....mostly because we had won a gift certificate for a resort, but also because I had not seen this more rural part of Thailand in the mountains. So off to Chiang Rai we go - about a 1 hr flight from Bangkok.

Turns our there are really only 2 things to see..the Golden Triangle and Wat Rong Khun Temple (or white temple). Other than that, I really just had a mind to sleep, eat and relax. Which turned out to be a good thing....because really, outside of those 2 destinations, Chiang Rai is a sleepy sleepy little town. zzzzzzzz.......

On Day 1 we set out for the White Temple. While most temples are dark, teak wood, the White Temple is distinctive and striking in appearance - a stark white structure on the horizon with glittering mirrors reflecting the bright sunlight overhead. It is lifetime project of artist Chalermchai Kositpipat to honor the current King of Thailand - it employs a blend of traditional Buddhist art with contemporary themes. Interestingly enough one of the contemporary themes is a mural with a representation of Keanu Reeves' character in the movie the Matrix as a symbol of the desctructiveness of modern times and technology. A bit odd, but maybe this explains lack of commitment to build relaible infrastructure for things like the internet in Thailand.



Next the Golden Triangle....a place notable because of its physical geography as the intersection of point of three countries Laos, Myanmar and Thailand, hence the name. The landscape is hilly and dense (it is the jungle after all) and is divided by the Ruak River that flows into the Mekong River - these rivers form a natural boundary between the three countries.


Apparently the Golden Triangle is also the heart of the opium trade. It seems opium and morphine were produced in Myanmar and the transported by horse or donkey caravans to refineries along the Thailand–Myanmar border for conversion to heroin. Finished goods were shipped across the border into various towns in North Thailand and and Bangkok for further distribution to international markets. I don't know if any of you saw the recent Denzel Washington movie called American Gangster, but they depict this area in the height of the 60's when GI's were coming through SE Asia and bringing some "special" parcels back to the US on unchecked government military planes. An opium museum at the site explains this and much more...from the paraphenalia used to how it is extracted and processed from poppy flowers. People say the operations still exist just on a smaller scale but it seems Afghanistan has now taken over as the world's #1 opium producer with SE Asian countries adopting strict penalties for drugs.

Outside of these 2 sites, there was not much more to report... the world's worst pizza was had at a tragic little Italian restaurant named DaVinci's - its name is permanently etched in my mind so I can warn others. And a Thai fortune teller at the night market tried to pitch me her services by telling me she had some very bad news to share with me....maybe she was trying to warn me about the pizza!

Sunday, November 2, 2008

Krabi - A Weekend in Paradise


A couple of friends were moving away from Thailand, so to properly send them off it was decided that a beach weekend was in order. Krabi was selected as it is widely regarded as the most beautiful beach in Thailand by Thais and foreigners alike. Having never been to Krabi, I was excited to see what all the fuss was about.


We arrived late Friday night - after taking a plane 1.5 hrs from BKK and then a van 1hr and then a 10 min boat ride across a cove to a rustic Thai style resort village. Thai style in this case meaning teak wood house silk curtains and everything lit by lanterns. The Thai house (see below) was charming for sure, but under the cover of night it was hard to get a read on what the beach might actually be like. After a late dinner and a couple of drinks I retired to bed...waking up to find we had been dropped in paradise....


Separated by only a small fence and some lawn, we sat on our porch Saturday morning and enjoyed the view....setting out a plan for the day. Eventually some folks went kayaking, while others lounged and read, and a couple of people who spoke Thai offered to go to the local seafood market to prepare for our group seafood feast. I opted for some swimming and a massage on the beach.


As sunset approached, we regrouped late afternoon for cocktails and dinner preparations on the porch. It seems like no matter where you are in the world, nothing tops hanging out with friends over good food and drink.


The next day it was up and at 'em early for a full day snorkeling / boat trip. This is when Krabi's magic fully revealed itself.....stunning cove after stunning cover....crystal blue waters....the most colorful fish I have ever seen swimming close to the surface....the photos simply do not do it justice.



As I prepare for my move to Singapore in January, I am trying to see as much of Thailand as possible....I have an unofficial rule of not going to the same place twice. Lucky for me that Krabi is in southern Thailand, so is about 1 hour from Singapore....because I plan to go back!