Accidental Epicurean - check it out

So I have received a lot of feedback from you guys that you are missing my blog posts. A couple of things have happened that have caused this....

1) my move from Bangkok to Singapore

2) my crazy new work schedule (sometimes I feel like a frog in a pot where they are slowly turning up the temperature)

and

3) I have been working on a new project that I think we are ready to reveal. The building of http://www.accidentalepicurean.com/ has been taking up my extracurricular time lately.

I am building this with Paul, but we are looking for local contributors who live in or visit major destination spots. So if you have anything to say about living the good life (restaurants, movies, books, travel destinations, home / living tips, spas, etc) then let me know...or at least post a comment on the website.

More than likely all my future travels and such will be covered on the website....and who knows , if it is good enough, maybe some day we will get advertisers :)

Take care,
Joanna

Feeling Vaguely Patriotic...

Those of you who know me well, will know I am politically uninvolved. A registered Democrat, I was happy that Obama was elected. The historical significance of the moment was not lost on me. But living overseas, I observed the elections like I observe my closest friend's children who live in the US - from a distance, knowing that they are special, significant people, but not really feeling close in any meaningful way...a sort of curious observation.

So imagine my surprise when running on the treadmill during my morning workout in Singapore. I was moved to tears by watching the innauguration coverage on CNN. Seeing the masses in crowded into the Washington mall, seeing the wonder and elation on the faces in the crowd, feeling the energy as the oath was taken - it provoked a most unexpected response. Relief, joy, hope....and possibily even something patriotic??? If my response is this, I can only imagine the energy in the US.

Beyond the historical significance, I see around me every day, people's perceptions of America changing. There is a belief and a hope for the future not only for the US, but also for the world in these dark times. For the first time in many years, I am feeling vaguely patriotic! No longer embarrased by the world press. No longer shielding the cover of my passport in airports. And shedding the sheepish self-consciousness of being a world-traveling American who mumbles their country of origin in overseas introductions.

Having personally endured 9/11 in NYC, BKK riots / protests / coups, and then observing other terrible events and crimes against humanity on the world stage, I am proud to see something so positively momentous happen in my lifetime.

Why I love Vietnam - HCMC

Four days in Ho Chi Minh City were spectacular.

Living in Thailand, the thing that always amazes me is how different Vietnam is even though there are so many superficial similarities...Asian culture whose roots are Chinese, developing nation with a high poverty level, similar cultural customs, etc. But where Vietnam separates itself is with the people. This is a place where people have seen war, hunger and extreme communist regimes. This is a country where the work ethic approaches that of New York or Hong Kong and seems to be driven by a real feeling that they can advance and are not limited by their social status at birth. They are grateful for everything they have as they have worked hard to earn it. Ho Chi Minh city, formerly Saigon, is a prime example of this.

As the largest city in Vietnam it is the bustling commercial center for the country. And this is not lost on the Western world - many companies are moving their overseas manufacturing operations out of Thailand and China, not because the cost of operation is tremendously different, but because the commitment to quality and efficiency are vastly superior. Companies like North Face, Patagonia, some of Nike and running their global manufacturing facilities from HCMC.

And beyond the corporate world, there is a inspiring art scene with everything from serious painters to talented fashion designers. It really is unusual to see such original thought in SE Asia. This will sound jaded and no doubt will raise some eyebrows, but the region is not known for original thought....SE Asians are masters of copying and with clear instructions they are wonderful do-ers. But art and culture as we know it (original musicians, galleries with artists, fine arts museums, operas, symphonies) are simply absent in SE Asia. This is generally because of the government and resulting education systems which create followers rather than leaders. Original thought is squelched as that is the stuff of questioning minds and protests. But somehow, despite the current communist regime in Vietnam, there is a thriving art scene in HCMC. And while this certainly exists at a high brow level, it also exists on a more approachable scale - Vietnamese designers trained by french tailors during the colonial times turn out incredibly unique and inspired silk dresses in the most dazzling array of colors and patterns. This is just another example of how the Vietnamese persevere and create their own destinies.



Likely this is resulting from HCMC's long history. It was actually part of Cambodia until it was annexed by the Vietnamese in the 17th century. Colonized by the French in the 1800's, the city became so Western and cosmopolitan that it was known as "Paris in the Orient." Today, the city is still adorned with wide elegant boulevards , French colonial buildings and lovely little bistros and cafes making breads and pastries in the French tradition.




Au Parc was one such example. Easily the most delightful cafe I have had the pleasure of dining in, in all of SE Asia. A French cafe, it offers the standard fare (omelettes, croque monsieur, pates, cheeses, cafe au lait) but also offers French North African fare (hummus, falafel, chicken tajine). What impressed us the most was the quality of the food - the freshest ingredients, prepared absolutely correctly. It was so good, we ate there twice! Sampling once from the French items and the second time from the North African menu. I will say that sometimes one stumbles upon gems in Asia - and typically these gems are qualified by the fact that they are "good" for Asia - meaning....well it is not NYC pizza, but not bad for Bangkok. Au Parc however, would have a welcome home in any major metropolitan city in Asia or the West. It was just that good.


So by day, aside from our visits to Au Parc, we explored the city on foot. It is actually quite small and completely manageable for a weekend trip. In one day we managed to see the Reunification Palace and the War Remnants Museum. Two must sees,for sure. But mainly we took in the city with long walks....popping in a lacquerware shop here, stopping for a Vietnamese coffee there. Funnily enough a large part of the one rainy afternoon was spent in Annam Gourmet Store. If you have lived or spent any time in Asia this place will blow your mind - the array of imported foods and wines is simply dazzling. Copolla Cabernet Sauvignon's for $15, a wide selection of Belgian ales including Duvel and Chimay, organic flours and grains, imported cheeses and pates, imported chocolates and heavenly sweet treats. We emerged with a couple of bottles of Californian wine, organic buckwheat pancake mix and dried cranberries. Yum.

So back to Bangkok we go....with pancake mix, memories of a well spent weekend and a deeper appreciation for Vietnam.

The Floating Market, Bangkok

An impromptu birthday lunch for a friend took us to the floating market about 1 hr outside Bangkok - a local produce / fish market where vendors prepare meals in woks on tiny canoes aside the floating platform.


Having been in BKK for over 1 year now, everyone was surprised I had not taken the time to see this yet, as it is a BKK institution. However, as most of you know, I spend most weekends traveling - the result of which is I realize I haven't actually explored my own city as carefully as I would like. I guess the equivalent would be my living in NYC for 14 years and never visiting the Statue of Liberty (yes, also true).

Sitting on thatched mats on the moving floor (floating platform, remember?) we enjoyed lots of local fish, dried catfish, chicken and basil stirfry, morning glory, fresh mangoes and much more.




I guess one could day this is the weekend equivalent of brunch in NYC....just another day in Bangkok.

J

What the hell is going on in Thailand?

First, I apologize as I am woefully behind on my trips....all I can say without boring you to tears is that I have been working HARD. So no time to even pull trip photos off my camera. I hope to find the time over the holidays to put up a couple of postings.

In the meantime, some of have heard and have asked me 'what is going on in Thailand?' Aside from the fact that there are protests and the airport closed because a particular political party disagreed with the current administration, I was really unable to share much....until now.

You see in Thailand, news is censored. Newspapers, TV, and until recently even internet sites like You Tube were blocked to "protect the people." Protect them from what???? Well, it seems that the country is not worried about its skyrocketing AIDS rate, or the sex tourism trade or the abject poverty one sees on the streets. No, they are worried about you reading something negative about the government and the king. There is a law here that prevents one from even speaking about the King or monarchy in public lest they get arrested and / or deported. And in fact, I am only recently emboldened to share this as I am moving to Singapore and also because I am writing this from a hotel room in Hong Kong. Thai government tracks all goings-on on the internet as well, so I will leave my comments brief as I like the Thai beaches and want to return occasionally.

But what I would like to do is share with you some links where you can read more. All this news in printed form is blocked in Thailand. I learned about it thorough word of mouth and was encouraged to find it online (but not to forward it as it may attract unwanted attention from the censors). Expats are speaking in quiet whispers, asking one another, "did you see the article? it was the first time I understood what was happening here."

In fact, the Economist was banned from Thailand for its thorough dissection of 60 years of the monarchy. And Newsweek also shared a pretty thorough commentary as well charatcerizing events as the brewing of a "civil war", this publication is also not available in Thailand anymore.

So, if you would like to understand more, please take a look at these links.

http://www.economist.com/world/asia/displayStory.cfm?story_id=12724800&source=hptextfeature

http://www.economist.com/opinion/displaystory.cfm?story_id=12724832

http://www.newsweek.com/id/172612


More later. I promise.

Joanna

Chiang Rai, Thailand - A trip north

A last minute trip north was planned....mostly because we had won a gift certificate for a resort, but also because I had not seen this more rural part of Thailand in the mountains. So off to Chiang Rai we go - about a 1 hr flight from Bangkok.

Turns our there are really only 2 things to see..the Golden Triangle and Wat Rong Khun Temple (or white temple). Other than that, I really just had a mind to sleep, eat and relax. Which turned out to be a good thing....because really, outside of those 2 destinations, Chiang Rai is a sleepy sleepy little town. zzzzzzzz.......

On Day 1 we set out for the White Temple. While most temples are dark, teak wood, the White Temple is distinctive and striking in appearance - a stark white structure on the horizon with glittering mirrors reflecting the bright sunlight overhead. It is lifetime project of artist Chalermchai Kositpipat to honor the current King of Thailand - it employs a blend of traditional Buddhist art with contemporary themes. Interestingly enough one of the contemporary themes is a mural with a representation of Keanu Reeves' character in the movie the Matrix as a symbol of the desctructiveness of modern times and technology. A bit odd, but maybe this explains lack of commitment to build relaible infrastructure for things like the internet in Thailand.



Next the Golden Triangle....a place notable because of its physical geography as the intersection of point of three countries Laos, Myanmar and Thailand, hence the name. The landscape is hilly and dense (it is the jungle after all) and is divided by the Ruak River that flows into the Mekong River - these rivers form a natural boundary between the three countries.


Apparently the Golden Triangle is also the heart of the opium trade. It seems opium and morphine were produced in Myanmar and the transported by horse or donkey caravans to refineries along the Thailand–Myanmar border for conversion to heroin. Finished goods were shipped across the border into various towns in North Thailand and and Bangkok for further distribution to international markets. I don't know if any of you saw the recent Denzel Washington movie called American Gangster, but they depict this area in the height of the 60's when GI's were coming through SE Asia and bringing some "special" parcels back to the US on unchecked government military planes. An opium museum at the site explains this and much more...from the paraphenalia used to how it is extracted and processed from poppy flowers. People say the operations still exist just on a smaller scale but it seems Afghanistan has now taken over as the world's #1 opium producer with SE Asian countries adopting strict penalties for drugs.

Outside of these 2 sites, there was not much more to report... the world's worst pizza was had at a tragic little Italian restaurant named DaVinci's - its name is permanently etched in my mind so I can warn others. And a Thai fortune teller at the night market tried to pitch me her services by telling me she had some very bad news to share with me....maybe she was trying to warn me about the pizza!

Krabi - A Weekend in Paradise

A couple of friends were moving away from Thailand, so to properly send them off it was decided that a beach weekend was in order. Krabi was selected as it is widely regarded as the most beautiful beach in Thailand by Thais and foreigners alike. Having never been to Krabi, I was excited to see what all the fuss was about.


We arrived late Friday night - after taking a plane 1.5 hrs from BKK and then a van 1hr and then a 10 min boat ride across a cove to a rustic Thai style resort village. Thai style in this case meaning teak wood house silk curtains and everything lit by lanterns. The Thai house (see below) was charming for sure, but under the cover of night it was hard to get a read on what the beach might actually be like. After a late dinner and a couple of drinks I retired to bed...waking up to find we had been dropped in paradise....


Separated by only a small fence and some lawn, we sat on our porch Saturday morning and enjoyed the view....setting out a plan for the day. Eventually some folks went kayaking, while others lounged and read, and a couple of people who spoke Thai offered to go to the local seafood market to prepare for our group seafood feast. I opted for some swimming and a massage on the beach.


As sunset approached, we regrouped late afternoon for cocktails and dinner preparations on the porch. It seems like no matter where you are in the world, nothing tops hanging out with friends over good food and drink.


The next day it was up and at 'em early for a full day snorkeling / boat trip. This is when Krabi's magic fully revealed itself.....stunning cove after stunning cover....crystal blue waters....the most colorful fish I have ever seen swimming close to the surface....the photos simply do not do it justice.



As I prepare for my move to Singapore in January, I am trying to see as much of Thailand as possible....I have an unofficial rule of not going to the same place twice. Lucky for me that Krabi is in southern Thailand, so is about 1 hour from Singapore....because I plan to go back!

Cambodia - Phnom Phen

With the prospect of another long holiday weekend ahead, I found myself a little stumped on where to go. I generally have maintained a policy of not going the same place twice in order to make sure I explore this part of the world thoroughly while I am here. So having noticed on the map that I had not been to Cambodia yet, I set off to plan a trip. I also managed to recruit some old-timers who had been to Cambodia before to join me. Gretchen has been living in Asia some 7 years, while Paul has been here 4. With experienced Phnom Phen (PP) travelers I set off on another SE Asia adventure.

Cambodia was previously colonized by the French. So in addition to having its own history and culture to explore, there is an adopted culture of fine European food and wine . As such, what will follows can most accurately be described as both a dissection of my culinary pursuits as well as a description of the sights we saw.

And since I forgot my camera, I cannot take credit for the photos - Paul took them, which is why sadly he is not pictured.

(having not seen so many pastries in so long - I find myself frozen at the counter, unable to choose!)

After quickly scouring the admittedly small "downtown" of PP, we made our way to the foreign correspondent's club (FCC). A journalists' hangout from the days of the Cambodian civil war and now a favorite of expats. We sampled the local beer - Angkor - and watched the sunset.


Gretchen has some friends living in Phnom Phen who took us out to dinner at a lovely tapas restaurant where we stuffed ourselves on multiple courses of tortillas, chorizo, olives, bread, flan and pitchers of sangria. I think the bill was something like $20 USD / person - incredible.


The next morning we made our way to the Russian market which is where the majority of PP expats and locals do their shopping. Anything you can imagine is sold here from custom gemstone jewelry to motorcycle parts to produce. We were on a hunt for black market GAP and Old Navy and some DVD copies - and a few hours later we emerged with our wallets a little lighter and well stocked on t-shirts and movies.

(the dreaded durian fruit not only smells like death, but looks evil! in fact its smell is so bad, it is banned from public buildings)


After the market, we embarked on the second leg of our journey - a 3 hour drive to through the countryside to the village of Kampot. All manner of Cambodian life were observed on the drive - from emaciated cattle crossing the road to landmine restricted areas to people carrying slaughtered livestock home on the back of motorbikes, no kidding....dangling heads and hoofs and all.

Kampot is a village on the river and as it turns out my most people's standards it is a sleepy little village. For those who live in PP, it is a weekend getaway - the Hamptons of Cambodia. In our time there we totally relaxed - read books, rode bikes, ate leisurely meals and walked along the river.


On our way back to PP we decided to take a bit of a detour to the seaside village of Kep. Our innkeeper in Kampot told us they were famous for their crab. Inspired by a new culinary mission we set off - 2 crabs and a whole fish later....we got back in the car for our final leg back to PP.



In going back to PP, I wanted to take time to see the S21 prison and visit the genocide museum. While chilling, a trip to Cambodia is not really complete without an exploration of the genocide that took place there in recent decades. It is hard to believe that in my generation, today's modern world, that countrymen actually were killing and torturing one another in such medieval ways.


What could be a sad commentary on human nature is softened by the peaceful and gentle nature of Cambodia's today. Everyone we spoke to, from the market to the guesthouse, were friendly and optimistic. They strove to build their businesses and improve their English in order to be more successful. They have dreams of running larger businesses and growing the local ecomony by training and employing more people. The incidents of the past seem not to weigh them down as they look forward to better futures for themselves and their families.

So what's next on the agenda.....let's see:

- Oct: Krabi, Thailand (beach) and Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), Vietnam
- Nov: Siem Reap, Cambodia (Angkor Wat), Koh Samui, Thailand (beach) and Singapore
- Dec: Hong Kong, Shanghai and 2 weeks in Australia

Thailand - State of Emergency

(photos pulled from internet news articles)


I have been getting emails from some of you inquiring about the political situation in Thailand. By the way, this has also been an interesting litmus test on my friend's and family's engagement with world news....now we know who is reading the international section of the paper!

So in its simplest terms, it appears there is a coup in progress. Thailand is no stranger to coups - there was one just prior to my move here in April.

The PAD (People's Alliance for Democracy) is responsible for this, and the last, conflict. Its supporters are mainly urban, middle- to upper-class who are relatively rich compared to the majority of Thailand's rural population. The PAD's self defined mission is anti-corruption and anti-authoritarianism.

Now, one and a half years after the last coup they orchestrated, the PAD have taken action to insist that the Prime Minister step down from his post. So these folks are tired of the PM's alleged corruption and double talk. Anyone who known anything about the 3rd world will know that bribes and corruption are widely tolerated as part of daily life....so in fact the offenses they allege he committed are particularly egregious.

So what does this mean in terms of activity in BKK?

Demonstrations started at the Parliament peacefully, but quickly devolved. Angry protesters brandished weapons as police in riot gear were brought in to calm the swell. Turns out a bunch of angry Thai's are not so easily subdued. Police used force, people died and the conflict then escalated.
In the last week, protests were strategically expanded to include new sites like airports and public transportation centers. The result of which is that 2 airports are now closed and various sorts of public transport are largely unavailable. Large Thai employers and companies have gone on sympathetic strike and there is a rumor that Thai Airways (the national airline) will soon shut down in protest. The international airport is open for the moment, but it is debatable how long that will remain open, especially if Thai Air follows suit.

The PM called the military in for a meeting to assist in matters and it was reported that the head general advised the PM to step down. The military has clearly and publically indicated its support of the people, so one wonders how much longer the PM can hold out. Water and electricity have been shut down in government buildings, residences and in some parts of town in an effort to increase the choke hold on the PM and other politicians. There are reports that the shut downs will be extended to residential areas to further escalate the situation. As chaos, car traffic and mounting anxiety choke BKK, the prevailing opinion is that a coup is underway.

You might be wondering how does this affect me, Joanna..

Well, the answer is not so much....so far. Practically speaking most of the action is in another part of the city. There is a curfew, but it seems none of the expats observe it. We still have water and electricity. Bars, restaurants and clubs are still open and decently attended, although admittedly not as full as usual.

So amidst the chaos the foreign elite are relatively unscathed for now. We'll see how long this holds....I personally am safe and comfortable at the moment. And I think for the majority of us expats, as long as water and electricity are available and the international airport stays open, we will remain fairly secure in our expat bubble.

With that said, laying low is not a bad idea...and I do have a lot of reading to catch up on....

Lux Dubai

On yet another Thai holiday whose significance escaped me, I met a friend in Dubai for a long weekend. Why Dubai? Well practically speaking, because it is the halfway point between BKK and Europe where my friend lives. But in reality, she and both were privy to rumors that shopping, spas and beaches in Dubai were over the top luxurious and we had to see for ourselves! I mean, this after is the home of the world's only 7 star resort (sadly....no we did not stay there.)

It all started with a conspicuously luxurious airport transfer in the form of a Bentley....I swear we did not request such fancy accoutrements, but this apparently is standard issue for the hotel we stayed in. Turns out a Bentley, while nice, reminded me a whole lot of a Lexus on the inside. Good! Crisis averted....now I won't always wonder if I am missing out on the finer things. Either that or I am too simple and coarse to appreciate the subtle nuances of six figure automobiles.

The rest on the other hand I could get used to..... We stayed in a villa on the Jumeirah Al Qsar resort....a posh 5 star resort, where each room has a private butler. This wonderful man brought us a lovely breakfast to our terrace every morning.




The days were spent lounging on the beach where our sun beds were lavishly made with pillows and frozen fruit was served in perfectly spaced intervals by discreet attendants.



Plenty of leisurely time was spent in the ridiculously warm, 90 degree water. (well, it was 105 - 110 outside)

And then evenings were spent having wonderful, leisurely dinners of middle eastern food and partaking of the hookah.


Not bad for 5 days in the middle of a desert....

Koh Samet

Koh Samet is yet another Thai island. What can I say that I haven't already said about Thai islands.....turquoise waters, white sands, laid back vibe....But somehow this one manages to be special in its own way.


It is 2 hours from BKK, so imminently do-able for a weekend. But I think the thing that is most interesting is the blend of Thai and Farang (white foreigners). While many islands and upscale resort here attract foreigners with Dollars or Euros burning a hole in their pockets, Samet presents a low key and more reasonably priced option. For this reason the crowd varies wildly....from teenage European backpackers, to expats stealing a few days away to Thai college students and professionals who come with their friends. We are all attracted for the same reasons - good food, great beaches and better times with friends. Myself, I went with a couple of people from work. Matthias a German expat and Jay an Aussie expat.



In 2 days we managed to cover the island fairly well, thanks to our motorbikes. And explored lots of places from the rocky cliffs at sunset....




....to a lovely restaurant that one has to take a boat to get to, and then dines sitting on the floor with feeling a-dangling above the sea.


Another weekend in Thailand....short, but oh so sweet.