Cambodia - Phnom Phen

With the prospect of another long holiday weekend ahead, I found myself a little stumped on where to go. I generally have maintained a policy of not going the same place twice in order to make sure I explore this part of the world thoroughly while I am here. So having noticed on the map that I had not been to Cambodia yet, I set off to plan a trip. I also managed to recruit some old-timers who had been to Cambodia before to join me. Gretchen has been living in Asia some 7 years, while Paul has been here 4. With experienced Phnom Phen (PP) travelers I set off on another SE Asia adventure.

Cambodia was previously colonized by the French. So in addition to having its own history and culture to explore, there is an adopted culture of fine European food and wine . As such, what will follows can most accurately be described as both a dissection of my culinary pursuits as well as a description of the sights we saw.

And since I forgot my camera, I cannot take credit for the photos - Paul took them, which is why sadly he is not pictured.

(having not seen so many pastries in so long - I find myself frozen at the counter, unable to choose!)

After quickly scouring the admittedly small "downtown" of PP, we made our way to the foreign correspondent's club (FCC). A journalists' hangout from the days of the Cambodian civil war and now a favorite of expats. We sampled the local beer - Angkor - and watched the sunset.


Gretchen has some friends living in Phnom Phen who took us out to dinner at a lovely tapas restaurant where we stuffed ourselves on multiple courses of tortillas, chorizo, olives, bread, flan and pitchers of sangria. I think the bill was something like $20 USD / person - incredible.


The next morning we made our way to the Russian market which is where the majority of PP expats and locals do their shopping. Anything you can imagine is sold here from custom gemstone jewelry to motorcycle parts to produce. We were on a hunt for black market GAP and Old Navy and some DVD copies - and a few hours later we emerged with our wallets a little lighter and well stocked on t-shirts and movies.

(the dreaded durian fruit not only smells like death, but looks evil! in fact its smell is so bad, it is banned from public buildings)


After the market, we embarked on the second leg of our journey - a 3 hour drive to through the countryside to the village of Kampot. All manner of Cambodian life were observed on the drive - from emaciated cattle crossing the road to landmine restricted areas to people carrying slaughtered livestock home on the back of motorbikes, no kidding....dangling heads and hoofs and all.

Kampot is a village on the river and as it turns out my most people's standards it is a sleepy little village. For those who live in PP, it is a weekend getaway - the Hamptons of Cambodia. In our time there we totally relaxed - read books, rode bikes, ate leisurely meals and walked along the river.


On our way back to PP we decided to take a bit of a detour to the seaside village of Kep. Our innkeeper in Kampot told us they were famous for their crab. Inspired by a new culinary mission we set off - 2 crabs and a whole fish later....we got back in the car for our final leg back to PP.



In going back to PP, I wanted to take time to see the S21 prison and visit the genocide museum. While chilling, a trip to Cambodia is not really complete without an exploration of the genocide that took place there in recent decades. It is hard to believe that in my generation, today's modern world, that countrymen actually were killing and torturing one another in such medieval ways.


What could be a sad commentary on human nature is softened by the peaceful and gentle nature of Cambodia's today. Everyone we spoke to, from the market to the guesthouse, were friendly and optimistic. They strove to build their businesses and improve their English in order to be more successful. They have dreams of running larger businesses and growing the local ecomony by training and employing more people. The incidents of the past seem not to weigh them down as they look forward to better futures for themselves and their families.

So what's next on the agenda.....let's see:

- Oct: Krabi, Thailand (beach) and Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), Vietnam
- Nov: Siem Reap, Cambodia (Angkor Wat), Koh Samui, Thailand (beach) and Singapore
- Dec: Hong Kong, Shanghai and 2 weeks in Australia

Thailand - State of Emergency

(photos pulled from internet news articles)


I have been getting emails from some of you inquiring about the political situation in Thailand. By the way, this has also been an interesting litmus test on my friend's and family's engagement with world news....now we know who is reading the international section of the paper!

So in its simplest terms, it appears there is a coup in progress. Thailand is no stranger to coups - there was one just prior to my move here in April.

The PAD (People's Alliance for Democracy) is responsible for this, and the last, conflict. Its supporters are mainly urban, middle- to upper-class who are relatively rich compared to the majority of Thailand's rural population. The PAD's self defined mission is anti-corruption and anti-authoritarianism.

Now, one and a half years after the last coup they orchestrated, the PAD have taken action to insist that the Prime Minister step down from his post. So these folks are tired of the PM's alleged corruption and double talk. Anyone who known anything about the 3rd world will know that bribes and corruption are widely tolerated as part of daily life....so in fact the offenses they allege he committed are particularly egregious.

So what does this mean in terms of activity in BKK?

Demonstrations started at the Parliament peacefully, but quickly devolved. Angry protesters brandished weapons as police in riot gear were brought in to calm the swell. Turns out a bunch of angry Thai's are not so easily subdued. Police used force, people died and the conflict then escalated.
In the last week, protests were strategically expanded to include new sites like airports and public transportation centers. The result of which is that 2 airports are now closed and various sorts of public transport are largely unavailable. Large Thai employers and companies have gone on sympathetic strike and there is a rumor that Thai Airways (the national airline) will soon shut down in protest. The international airport is open for the moment, but it is debatable how long that will remain open, especially if Thai Air follows suit.

The PM called the military in for a meeting to assist in matters and it was reported that the head general advised the PM to step down. The military has clearly and publically indicated its support of the people, so one wonders how much longer the PM can hold out. Water and electricity have been shut down in government buildings, residences and in some parts of town in an effort to increase the choke hold on the PM and other politicians. There are reports that the shut downs will be extended to residential areas to further escalate the situation. As chaos, car traffic and mounting anxiety choke BKK, the prevailing opinion is that a coup is underway.

You might be wondering how does this affect me, Joanna..

Well, the answer is not so much....so far. Practically speaking most of the action is in another part of the city. There is a curfew, but it seems none of the expats observe it. We still have water and electricity. Bars, restaurants and clubs are still open and decently attended, although admittedly not as full as usual.

So amidst the chaos the foreign elite are relatively unscathed for now. We'll see how long this holds....I personally am safe and comfortable at the moment. And I think for the majority of us expats, as long as water and electricity are available and the international airport stays open, we will remain fairly secure in our expat bubble.

With that said, laying low is not a bad idea...and I do have a lot of reading to catch up on....

Lux Dubai

On yet another Thai holiday whose significance escaped me, I met a friend in Dubai for a long weekend. Why Dubai? Well practically speaking, because it is the halfway point between BKK and Europe where my friend lives. But in reality, she and both were privy to rumors that shopping, spas and beaches in Dubai were over the top luxurious and we had to see for ourselves! I mean, this after is the home of the world's only 7 star resort (sadly....no we did not stay there.)

It all started with a conspicuously luxurious airport transfer in the form of a Bentley....I swear we did not request such fancy accoutrements, but this apparently is standard issue for the hotel we stayed in. Turns out a Bentley, while nice, reminded me a whole lot of a Lexus on the inside. Good! Crisis averted....now I won't always wonder if I am missing out on the finer things. Either that or I am too simple and coarse to appreciate the subtle nuances of six figure automobiles.

The rest on the other hand I could get used to..... We stayed in a villa on the Jumeirah Al Qsar resort....a posh 5 star resort, where each room has a private butler. This wonderful man brought us a lovely breakfast to our terrace every morning.




The days were spent lounging on the beach where our sun beds were lavishly made with pillows and frozen fruit was served in perfectly spaced intervals by discreet attendants.



Plenty of leisurely time was spent in the ridiculously warm, 90 degree water. (well, it was 105 - 110 outside)

And then evenings were spent having wonderful, leisurely dinners of middle eastern food and partaking of the hookah.


Not bad for 5 days in the middle of a desert....

Koh Samet

Koh Samet is yet another Thai island. What can I say that I haven't already said about Thai islands.....turquoise waters, white sands, laid back vibe....But somehow this one manages to be special in its own way.


It is 2 hours from BKK, so imminently do-able for a weekend. But I think the thing that is most interesting is the blend of Thai and Farang (white foreigners). While many islands and upscale resort here attract foreigners with Dollars or Euros burning a hole in their pockets, Samet presents a low key and more reasonably priced option. For this reason the crowd varies wildly....from teenage European backpackers, to expats stealing a few days away to Thai college students and professionals who come with their friends. We are all attracted for the same reasons - good food, great beaches and better times with friends. Myself, I went with a couple of people from work. Matthias a German expat and Jay an Aussie expat.



In 2 days we managed to cover the island fairly well, thanks to our motorbikes. And explored lots of places from the rocky cliffs at sunset....




....to a lovely restaurant that one has to take a boat to get to, and then dines sitting on the floor with feeling a-dangling above the sea.


Another weekend in Thailand....short, but oh so sweet.

Hong Kong - My new favorite place!

My friend Lara was passing through Asia on business and after a couple of glasses of champagne in BKK, she talked me into taking off with her to Hong Kong a couple of days later. Only a 2.5 hr flight from BKK, HK is surprisingly close.....and as I would discover, it is surprising in many other ways as well.

(yes, this was after the aforementioned champagne :)

After 4 days in Hong Kong, I said to myself, "I might like to live here at some point in my life." So what is so special about HK you ask? Hmmmm, what's not special is really the question. A city with spectacular water and mountain views, the most charming aspects of both Chinese and British culture and a phenomenally rich tapestry of offerings that only an international city as vibrant as this could offer.



Everything about HK is to me is what an international city should be. While I do love living in BKK there are in fact some very clear contrasts between the 2 cities....

Work environment and ethic
- HK: strong and intense, NY-style
- BKK: mai pen rai, Thai for "whatever, never mind, who cares"


Energy level
- HK: high and contagious
- BKK: again mai pen rai

Activities
- HK: wide and varied from high-end shopping to rich cultural pursuits, posh / lux restaurants and a vibrant nightlife with lots of live music
- BKK: shopping in the markets or malls , going to movies, eating street food or fine dining, but a marked lack of anything cultural (e.g. music, performing arts) ...if it doesn't involve food or shopping most Thai's simply aren't interested




History
- HK: a wide awareness and knowledge about the British colonial period balanced with a very Chinese culture, everyone from taxi drivers to the average sales clerk can tell you something new and different about HK
- BKK: no interest in history whatsoever, if it is new and trendy then it captures attention - in fact there are really no antiques or historic old buildings in Thailand (outside of temples), because old = bad, run down, dirty AND new = desirable, attractive

Expat community
Well, one must view a country based on its local people, but I did notice a distinct difference in the expats between these 2 great cities.
- HK: highly educated professionals with an international mindset
- BKK: some professionals like myself, but largely sex-pats who come to "party" in a unique way that only Thailand can offer...did I ever mention the bar Baccarat which features a clear glass second floor on which girls with no underwear dance to entertain the patrons below on the first floor? (oh yes, I cannot make this stuff up).

(in Lan Kwai Fong - the nightclub district in HK)


So, should Unilever ever open a HK office - I'm there. Until then, I will get to HK as often as possible. And you should too....

Bring in the tigers!

So at the risk of being less creative, but more expedient, I give you the quick story of my visit to the Tiger Temple. It’s a temple, there are tigers and here are the photos. OK, I can do a bit better than that…

About 2 hours outside of Bangkok there is a temple where the story goes something like this – 10 years ago someone left an abandoned tiger cub. They monks raised it and over the years their brood has expand to include some 8-10 tigers and several tiger cubs. In fact they have the highest birth rate for tigers in captivity in the world, a feat to which they attribute the tigers’ happiness living with the monks.


The most unique part of the experience of visiting Tiger Temple is that you can in fact interact with, feed and cuddle these beasts. It was beyond surreal and by far the coolest thing I have seen and done in Thailand. See for yourself:

Koh Ngai - just another weekend in paradise....

Koh Ngai was in fact so remote that none of the Thai's I told I was going had even heard of it! When I explained to them we were going to fly to southern Thailand (1 hr), drive (3 hrs) and take a boat (1 hr), they then knew why they had never been. It was explained to me that all that travel to go somewhere that was just another island was viewed as a ridiculous amount of effort, when there are so many island getaways within 2-3 hours of Bangkok.



With that said, it was totally worth it. We were in fact one of 10 guests on the WHOLE island. Imagine…..

- A whole hotel staff attending to your needs

- Uninterrupted waterside naps




- Snorkeling in seemingly untouched waters

- Running on the beach, morning and evening, without seeing a soul



- Collecting perfect shells untouched or trampled by tourist feet

- Perfect, perfect sunrises and sunsets from your bed which is all of 20 feet from the shoreline (see the photo below, yes that is the window that my bed faced)



- Hiking from one side of the island to the other and hearing nothing but the chirp and twitter of jungle creatures

- A massive gecko living on the doorsill, creepy at first ‘til I realized he was eating all the mosquitos!


Hmmmm, yes indeed it was a long way to go for a simple island….but it was in fact this simplicity and peace that will lure me back again.